The central quarter of Eminonu district of Istanbul, where the imperial old city
was also located. It is the house of the
most significant historical remnants such as, the Blue Mosque, Hagia
Sophia, Topkapi Palace, museums, tourist hotels, shops restaurants and ancient
Hippodrome at the very center which was scene of chariot races and the center of Byzantine civic life. was the
place where the Nika Riot started in 532 AD. There are an Egyptian
Obelisk, a stone obelisk and the Serpentine Column which were originally
brought by the emperors and used for the decoration of the Hippodrome.
Golden Horn (Halic)
--------------------- This horn-shaped estuary divides European Istanbul. One of the best
natural harbors in the world, it was once the centre for the Byzantine
and Ottoman navies and commercial shipping interests. Today, attractive
parks and promenades line the shores, a picturesque scene especially as
the sun goes down over the water. At Fener and Balat, neighborhoods
midway up the Golden Horn, there are entire streets filled with old wooden
houses, churches, and synagogues dating from Byzantine and Ottoman times.
The Orthodox Patriarchy resides at Fener and a little further up the
Golden Horn at Eyup, are some wonderful examples of Ottoman architecture.
Muslim pilgrims from all over the world visit Eyup Camii and Tomb of Eyup,
the Prophet Mohammed’s standard bearer, and it is one of the holiest
places in Islam. The area is a still a popular burial place, and the hills
above the mosque are dotted with modern gravestones interspersed with
ornate Ottoman stones. The Pierre Loti Cafe, atop the hill overlooking the
shrine and the Golden Horn, is a wonderful place to enjoy the tranquility
of the view.
The Bosphorus
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A stay in Istanbul is not complete without a traditional and unforgettable
boat trip up the Bosphorus, the winding strait that separates Europe and
Asia. Its shores offer a delightful mixture of past and present, grand
splendor and simple beauty. Modem hotels stand next to yali (shorefront
wooden villas), marble palaces alongside rustic stone fortresses, and
elegant compounds neighbor small fishing villages. The best way to see
the Bosphorus is to board one of the passenger boats that regularly zigzag
along the shores. Embark at Eminonu, and stop alternately on the Asian and
European sides of the strait. The round trip excursion, very reasonably
priced, takes about six hours. If you wish a private voyage, there are
agencies that specialize in organizing these, day or night
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Beyoglu and Taksim
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Beyoglu is an interesting example of a district with European-influenced
architecture, from a century before. Europe’s second oldest subway, Tunel
was built by the French in 1875, must be also one of the shortest –
offering a one-stop ride to start of Taksim. Near to Tunel is the Galata
district, whose Galata Tower became a famous symbols of Istanbul, and the
top of which offers a tremendous 180 degree view of the city.
From the Tunel area to Taksim square is one of the city’s focal points for
shopping, entertainment and urban promenading: Istiklal Caddesi is a fine
example of the contrasts and compositions of Istanbul; fashion shops,
bookshops, cinemas, markets, restaurants and even hand-carts selling
trinkets and simit (sesame bread snack) ensure that the street is packed
throughout the day until late into the night. The old tramcars re-entered
into service, which shuttle up and down this fascinating street, and
otherwise the street is entirely pedestrianised. There are old embassy
buildings, Galatasaray High School, the colorful ambience of Balik Pazari
(Fish Bazaar) and restaurants in Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage). Also on
this street is the oldest church in the area, St Mary’s Draperis dating
back to 1789, and the Franciscan Church of St Antoine, demolished and then
rebuilt in 1913.
The street ends at Taksim Square, a huge open plaza, the hub of modern
Istanbul and always crowded, crowned with an imposing monument celebrating
Ataturk and the War of Independence. The main terminal of the new subway
is under the square, adjacent is a noisy bus terminal, and at the north
end is the Ataturk Cultural Centre, one of the venues of the Istanbul
Theatre Festival. Several five-star hotels are dotted around this area,
like the Hyatt, Intercontinental and Hilton (the oldest of its kind in the
city). North of the square is the Istanbul Military Museum.
Taksim and Beyoglu have for centuries been the centre of nightlife, and
now there are many lively bars and clubs off Istiklal Caddesi, including
some of the only gay venues in the city. Beyoglu is also the centre of the
more bohemian arts scene.
Kilyos is the nearest beach resort to the city, on the Black Sea coast on
the European side of the Bosphorus. Once a Greek fishing village, it has
quickly been developed as a holiday-home development, and gets very
crowded in summer. Because of its ease to get there, 25km and plenty of
public transport, it is good for a day trip, and is a popular weekend
getaway with plenty of hotels, and a couple of campsites.
Ortakoy was a resort for the Ottoman rulers because of its attractive
location on the Bosphorus, and is still a popular spot for residents and
visitors. The village is within a triangle of a mosque, church and
synagogue, and is near Ciragan Palace, Kabatas High School, Feriye,
Princess Hotel.
The name Ortakoy reflects the university students and teachers who would
gather to drink tea and discuss life, when it was just a small fishing
village. These days, however, that scene has developed into a suburb with
an increasing amount of expensive restaurants, bars, shops and a huge
market. The fishing, however, lives on and the area is popular with local
anglers, and there is now a huge waterfront tea-house which is crammed at
weekends and holidays.
Uskudar
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Relatively unknown to tourists, the suburb of Uskudar, on the Asian side
of the Bosphorus, is one of the most attractive suburbs. Religiously
conservative in its background, it has a tranquil atmosphere and some fine
examples of imperial and domestic architecture.
The Iskele, or Mihrimah Camii is opposite the main ferry pier, on a high
platform with a huge covered porch in front, often occupied by older local
men watching life around them. Opposite this is Yeni Valide Camii, built
in 1710, and the Valide Sultan’s green tomb rather like a giant birdcage.
The Cinili Mosque takes its name from the beautiful tiles which decorate
the interior, and was built in 1640.
Apart from places of religious interest, Uskudar is also well known as a
shopping area, with old market streets selling traditional local produce,
and a good flea market with second hand furniture. There are plenty of good
restaurants and cafes with great views of the Bosphorus and the rest of
the city, along the quayside. In the direction of Haydarpasa is the
Karaca Ahmet Cemetery, the largest Muslim graveyard in Istanbul. The front
of the Camlica hills lie at the ridge of area and also offer great
panoramic views of the islands and river.
The first sight of Sariyer is where the Bosphorus connects with the Black
Sea, after the bend in the river after Tarabya. Around this area, old
summer houses, embassies and fish restaurants line the river, and a narrow
road which separates it from Buyukdere, continues along to the beaches of
Kilyos.
Sariyer and Rumeli Kavagi are the final wharfs along the European side
visited by the Bosphorus boat trips. Both these districts, famous for
their fish restaurants along with Anadolu Kavagi, get very crowded at
weekends and holidays with Istanbul residents escaping the city.
After these points, the Bosphorus is lined with tree-covered cliffs and
little habitation. The Sadberk Hanim Museum, just before Sariyer, is an
interesting place to visit; a collection of archaeological and
ethnographic items, housed in two wooden houses. A few kilometers away is
the huge Belgrade Forest, once a haunting ground of the Ottomans, and now
a popular weekend retreat into the largest forest area in the city.
Also known as Istanbul Islands, there are eight within one hour from the
city, in the Marmara Sea. Boats ply the islands from Sirkeci, Kabatas and
Bostanci, with more services during the summer. These islands, on which
monasteries were established during the Byzantine period, was a popular
summer retreat for palace officials. It is still a popular escape from the
city, with wealthier owning summer houses.
Buyukada The largest and most popular is Buyukada (the Great Island).
Large wooden mansions still remain from the 19th century when wealthy
Greek and Armenian bankers built them as holiday villas. The island has
always been a place predominantly inhabited by minorities, hence Islam has
never had a strong presence here.
Buyukada has long had a history of people coming here in exile or retreat;
its most famous guest being Leon Trotsky, who stayed for four years
writing ‘The History of the Russian Revolution’. The monastery of St
George also played host to the granddaughter of Empress Irene, and the
royal princess Zoe, in 1012.
The island consists of two hills, both surmounted by monasteries, with a
valley between. Motor vehicles are banned, so getting around the island
can be done by graceful horse and carriage, leaving from the main square
off Isa Celebi Sokak. Bicycles can also be hired.
The southern hill, Yule Tepe, is the quieter of the two and also home of
St George’s Monastery. It consists of a series of chapels on three levels,
the site of which is a building dating back to the 12th century. In
Byzantine times it was used as an asylum, with iron rings on the church
floors used to restrain patients. On the northern hill is the monastery
Isa Tepe, a 19th century house.
The entire island is lively and colorful, with many restaurants, hotels,
tea houses and shops. There are huge well-kept houses, trim gardens, and
pine groves, as well as plenty of beach and picnic areas.
Burgazada Smaller and less of a tourist infrastructure is
Burgazada. The famous Turkish novelist, Sait Faik Abasiyanık lived here,
and his house has been turned into a museum dedicated to his work, and
retains a remarkable tranquil and hallowed atmosphere.
Heybeliada ‘Island of the Saddlebag’, because of its shape, is
loved for its natural beauty and beaches. It also has a highly prestigious
and fashionable water sports club in the northwest of the island. One of
its best-known landmarks is the Greek Orthodox School of Theology, with an
important collection of Byzantine manuscripts. The school sits loftily on
the northern hill, but permission is needed to enter, from the Greek
Orthodox Patriarchate in Fener. The Deniz Harp Okulu, the Naval High
School, is on the east side of the waterfront near the jetty, which was
originally the Naval War Academy set up in 1852, then a high school since
1985. Walking and cycling are popular here, plus isolated beaches as well
as the public Yoruk Beach, set in a magnificent bay. There are plenty of
good local restaurants and tea houses, especially along Ayyildiz Caddesi,
and the atmosphere is one of a close community.
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Sultanahmet (Hippodrome)
This horn-shaped estuary divides European Istanbul. One of the best
natural harbors in the world, it was once the centre for the Byzantine
and Ottoman navies and commercial shipping interests. Today, attractive
parks and promenades line the shores, a picturesque scene especially as
the sun goes down over the water. At Fener and Balat, neighborhoods
midway up the Golden Horn, there are entire streets filled with old wooden
houses, churches, and synagogues dating from Byzantine and Ottoman times.
The Orthodox Patriarchy resides at Fener and a little further up the
Golden Horn at Eyup, are some wonderful examples of Ottoman architecture.
Muslim pilgrims from all over the world visit Eyup Camii and Tomb of Eyup,
the Prophet Mohammed’s standard bearer, and it is one of the holiest
places in Islam. The area is a still a popular burial place, and the hills
above the mosque are dotted with modern gravestones interspersed with
ornate Ottoman stones. The Pierre Loti Cafe, atop the hill overlooking the
shrine and the Golden Horn, is a wonderful place to enjoy the tranquility
of the view. 
Beyoglu is an interesting example of a district with European-influenced
architecture, from a century before. Europe’s second oldest subway, Tunel
was built by the French in 1875, must be also one of the shortest –
offering a one-stop ride to start of Taksim. Near to Tunel is the Galata
district, whose Galata Tower became a famous symbols of Istanbul, and the
top of which offers a tremendous 180 degree view of the city. 
Ortakoy was a resort for the Ottoman rulers because of its attractive
location on the Bosphorus, and is still a popular spot for residents and
visitors. The village is within a triangle of a mosque, church and
synagogue, and is near Ciragan Palace, Kabatas High School, Feriye,
Princess Hotel. 
Also known as Istanbul Islands, there are eight within one hour from the
city, in the Marmara Sea. Boats ply the islands from Sirkeci, Kabatas and
Bostanci, with more services during the summer. These islands, on which
monasteries were established during the Byzantine period, was a popular
summer retreat for palace officials. It is still a popular escape from the
city, with wealthier owning summer houses.