Beyoglu and Taksim
Beyoglu is an interesting example of a district with
European-influenced architecture, from a century before.
Europe’s second oldest subway, Tunel was built by the
French in 1875, must be also one of the shortest –
offering a one-stop ride to start of Taksim. Near to
Tunel is the Galata district, whose
Galata Tower became
a famous symbols of Istanbul, and the top of which
offers a tremendous 180 degree view of the city.
From the
Tunel area to Taksim square is one of the
city’s focal points for shopping, entertainment and
urban promenading: Istiklal Caddesi is a fine example of
the contrasts and compositions of Istanbul; fashion
shops, bookshops, cinemas, markets, restaurants and even
hand-carts selling trinkets and simit (sesame bread
snack) ensure that the street is packed throughout the
day until late into the night. The old tramcars
re-entered into service, which shuttle up and down this
fascinating street, and otherwise the street is entirely
pedestrianised. There are old embassy buildings,
Galatasaray High School, the colorful ambience of Balik
Pazari (Fish Bazaar) and restaurants in
Cicek Pasaji
(Flower Passage). Also on this street is the oldest
church in the area, St Mary’s Draperis dating back to
1789, and the Franciscan Church of St Antoine,
demolished and then rebuilt in 1913.
The street ends at Taksim Square, a huge open plaza, the
hub of modern Istanbul and always crowded, crowned with
an imposing monument celebrating Ataturk and the War of
Independence. The main terminal of the new subway is
under the square, adjacent is a noisy bus terminal, and
at the north end is the Ataturk Cultural Centre, one of
the venues of the Istanbul Theatre Festival. Several
five-star hotels are dotted around this area, like the
Hyatt, Intercontinental and Hilton (the oldest of its
kind in the city). North of the square is the Istanbul
Military Museum.
Taksim and Beyoglu have for centuries been the centre of
nightlife, and now there are many lively bars and clubs
off Istiklal Caddesi, including majority of the gay
venues in the city. Beyoglu is also the centre of the
more bohemian arts scene.
Sultanahmet
The central quarter of historical Istanbul,
where the imperial old city was also located. It is the
house of the most significant historical remnants such
as, the Blue Mosque,
Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace,
museums, tourist hotels, shops restaurants and ancient
Hippodrome at the very center which was scene of chariot
races and the center of Byzantine civic life. It was the
place where the Nika Riot started in 532 AD. There are
an Egyptian Obelisk, a stone obelisk and the Serpentine
Column which were originally brought by the emperors and
used for the decoration of the Hippodrome.
Golden Horn & Eyup
This horn-shaped estuary divides European Istanbul. One
of the best natural harbors in the world, it was once
the centre for the Byzantine and Ottoman navies and
commercial shipping interests. Today, attractive parks
and promenades line the shores, a picturesque scene
especially as the sun goes down over the water. At Fener
and Balat, neighborhoods midway up the Golden Horn,
there are entire streets filled with old wooden houses,
churches, and synagogues dating from Byzantine and
Ottoman times. The Orthodox Patriarchy resides at Fener
and a little further up the Golden Horn at Eyup, are
some wonderful examples of Ottoman architecture. Muslim
pilgrims from all over the world visit Eyup Mosque and
Tomb of Eyup, the Prophet Mohammed’s standard bearer,
and it is one of the holiest places in Islam. The area
is a still a popular burial place, and the hills above
the mosque are dotted with modern gravestones
interspersed with ornate Ottoman stones.
The Pierre Loti Cafe atop the hill overlooking the shrine and the
Golden Horn, is a wonderful place to enjoy the
tranquility of the view.
Click here for gay friendly Golden Horn & Eyup tours
Bosphorus (Bogazici)
A stay in Istanbul is not complete without a traditional
and unforgettable boat trip up the Bosphorus, the
winding strait that separates Europe and Asia. Its
shores offer a delightful mixture of past and present,
grand splendor and simple beauty. Modem hotels stand
next to yali (shorefront wooden villas), marble palaces
alongside rustic stone fortresses, and elegant compounds
neighbor small fishing villages. Districts lying on both
sides of the Bosphorus contribute to the charm of this
water passageway that is unique in the world with its
quite different textures and residential forms.
Kuzguncuk, Beylerbeyi, Çengelköy, Kanlica on the Asian
side, Arnavutkoy, Bebek, and Istinye on the European
side are the most beautiful small towns dotted along the
shores of Bosporus. The best way to see the Bosphorus is
to board one of the public boats that regularly zigzag
along the shores. Embark at Eminonu, and stop
alternately on the Asian and European sides of the
strait. The round trip excursion, very reasonably
priced, takes about six hours. If you wish a private
voyage, there are agencies that specialize in organizing
these, day or night.
Click here for gay friendly Bosphorus tours
Nisantasi
Nisantasi district is famous for its Art Nouveau
apartment buildings and its plethora of designer label
stores. It is undoubtedly Istanbul’s most elegant
quarter of and it's home to several prominent figures of
the Turkish jet-set, culture and art. There are
refreshingly large choice of excellent and stylish
restaurants, bars and the stores of world famous brands
such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Hugo Boss, Escada, Kenzo,
Prada and many more.
Nisantasi was originally an artillery range for Ottoman
soldiers (the name is derived from targeting). The land
was opened to settlement in the 18th century by Sultan
Abulmejid, who ordered the construction of the Art
Nouveau Police Station and Tesvikiye Mosque on the
street which bears its name. The idea was to create a
totally Europeanized district within Istanbul, and it
seems to be a great success in that sense. The heart of
the neighborhood is the point where Vali Konagi street
dissects Rumeli and Tesvikiye Avenues. Rumeli Avenue
leads down from Osmanbey, the closest metro station just
one stop from Taksim. From there it's just a matter of
following Rumeli Avenue for 250 meters until an
intersection appears at which the traffic is at a
standstill. This is the heart of Nisantasi.
Adalar (Prince Islands)
Adalar is the plural for "ada" which means island in
Turkish. This a group of small islands in Marmara sea
close to the main land on the Asian side. The beaches on
these islands seem to be the only swimming option left
close to the down town Istanbul. They consist of 9
islands, 4 of which are considerably popular and
inhabited. Private cars and motor vehicles are not
allowed on any of the islands. So you need to walk, hire
a bicycles or Fayton (a traditional horse-drawn
carriage) to get around.
Majority of the native inhabitants of these islands used
to be non-Muslim citizens of Ottoman Empire (Jews,
Greeks, Armenians) until the end of 19th century. Now
there are mansions and summer houses of rich men of
Istanbul. Buyuk Ada (Grand Island) is the biggest one as
the name suggests, and it is the most vibrant one. There
are public ferryboats to Adalar from Kabatas pier on the
European side (closer to Taksim, easily accessible from
Sultanahmet by tramcar) and from Kadikoy and Bostanci
districts on the Asian side. The journey takes 30-45
minutes by boat from Kabatas. The ferryboat from Sirkeci
stops on each inhabited island one after the other, in
order of Kinaliada, Burgaz, Heybeliada and Buyukada. You
can do hop-on hop off in this order between the islands
by taking the next arriving ferryboat. On return way,
the ferryboat does not stop on other islands after
departing Buyukada. If you are staying around Taksim,
you need to take the funicular line (Finukuler) from
Taksim Metro station to Kabatas first, which takes no
more than 5 minutes.
Click here for ferryboat schedules from Kabatas
to Prince Islands.
Click here for gay friendly Prince Islands tours
Ortakoy
Ortakoy was a resort for the Ottoman rulers because of
its attractive location on the Bosphorus, and is still a
popular spot for residents and visitors. The village is
within a triangle of a mosque, church and synagogue, and
is near Ciragan Palace, Kabatas High School, Feriye,
Princess Hotel.
The name Ortakoy reflects the university students and
teachers who would gather to drink tea and discuss life,
when it was just a small fishing village. These days,
however, that scene has developed into a suburb with an
increasing amount of expensive restaurants, bars, shops
and a huge market. The fishing, however, lives on and
the area is popular with local anglers, and there is now
a huge waterfront tea-house which is crammed at weekends
and holidays.
Sariyer
The first sight of Sariyer is where the Bosphorus
connects with the Black Sea, after the bend in the river
after Tarabya. Around this area, old summer houses,
embassies and fish restaurants line the river, and a
narrow road which separates it from Buyukdere, continues
along to the beaches of Kilyos.
Sariyer and Rumeli Kavagi are the final wharfs along the
European side visited by the Bosphorus boat trips. Both
these districts, famous for their fish restaurants along
with Anadolu Kavagi, get very crowded at weekends and
holidays with Istanbul residents escaping the city.
After these points, the Bosphorus is lined with
tree-covered cliffs and little habitation. The Sadberk
Hanim Museum, just before Sariyer, is an interesting
place to visit; a collection of archaeological and
ethnographic items, housed in two wooden houses. A few
kilometers away is the huge Belgrade Forest, once a
haunting ground of the Ottomans, and now a popular
weekend retreat into the largest forest area in the
city.
Uskudar
Relatively unknown to tourists, the suburb of
Uskudar,
on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, is one of the most
attractive suburbs. Religiously conservative in its
background, it has a tranquil atmosphere and some fine
examples of imperial and domestic architecture.
The Iskele, or Mihrimah Camii is opposite the main ferry
pier, on a high platform with a huge covered porch in
front, often occupied by older local men watching life
around them. Opposite this is Yeni Valide Camii, built
in 1710, and the Valide Sultan’s green tomb rather like
a giant birdcage. The Cinili Mosque takes its name from
the beautiful tiles which decorate the interior, and was
built in 1640.
Apart from places of religious interest, Uskudar is also
well known as a shopping area, with old market streets
selling traditional local produce, and a good flea
market with second hand furniture. There are plenty of
good restaurants and cafes with great views of the
Bosphorus and the rest of the city, along the quayside.
In the direction of Haydarpasa is the Karaca Ahmet
Cemetery, the largest Muslim graveyard in Istanbul. The
front of the Camlica hills lie at the ridge of area and
also offer great panoramic views of the islands and
river.
See also:
Travel
and Transportation
Historical Landmarks
Culture
and Art Guide
A Brief
History of Istanbul
The popular gay and lesbian friendly hotel in the past few weeks
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